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Creating a White Background with a Channel Mask

One question that I get asked more than most is “How can I make my white backgrounds white?” Well, where as most photographers are looking for a one click answer, I am sorry to say there isn’t one. But, this screencast comes pretty close as I delve into the world of the alpha channel mask by sneakily using image calculations, and the dodge and burn tools at 100%.

Creating a mask can be tedious to say the least, so I hope the techniques I show you in the screencast above will help you not only to keep your backgrounds nice and white, but will also get used with future compositing articles and screencasts that I have in the pipeline.

© Stuart Little 2009 - Before

© Stuart Little 2009 - Before

The shot above was taken as part of The Big Picture training series and I always did promise that I would demonstrate an effective way of cleaning up a background and make it pure white.

© Stuart Little 2009

© Stuart Little 2009

Lighting

Now, as you can see I used a Nikon SB28 speed-light aimed at the wall to light the background and at the time I was actually going for a vignette of white through to the soft cream from the wall colour. The light on the subject is coming from a Bowens Esprit 250w with a 1m Square Softbox and in terms of exposure the main light was about 2/3rds of a stop under-exposed and the background light was 2 stops over but with an 50mm zoom setting on the Nikon SB28 speed-light to focus it for the vignette. This was very much a manual setup and fly by the seat of your pants judgement call by looking at the histogram in the back of the camera. In hindsight, I should have done a few shots that blew the background completely to white and I also wished I had a C-Stand and Boom Arm attachment so that I could have got underneath the light. But hindsight is a great thing!

© Stuart Little 2009 - Channel Mask

© Stuart Little 2009 - Channel Mask

Photoshop

If you want to keep as much hair detail as possible in your mask for compositing then this technique is one to practice until perfected. Its my go to guy for composites and you will be seeing a lot more of it in other situations much more complicated than cleaning up a white background. But for now lets all walk before we can run and I bet there’s a few of you out there just saved a few hours in front of the computer! ;)

Note the little hairs retained along the bottom of the camera right of the hair and on the neck line camera left. Try get that with a lasso tool or even with extract if you still have it installed! Pretty Cool eh! Well, one final word to the wise. Once you have cranked up both the Dodge (O) and Burn (O) tools remember to right click on both their tool icons on the top left of the options bar after your done. Then choose the “Reset Tool”, that way you won’t blow up your next image.

© Stuart Little 2009 - After

© Stuart Little 2009 - After

Finally…

If you want to learn about the retouching involved in the image above, then don’t forget to check out The Big Picture. It’s got over 180 HD video tutorials and all the “behind the scenes” from this and 5 other shoots. >

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  1. Brilliant technique, I am forever wanting to composite some live figures into my web designs but facing cutting them out through more traditional methods had me giving up before I started.

    I’ll be taking some shots for the web with this technique in mind for sure.

    Thanks Stu!

  2. You see, I can even impress my staff now and again… ;)

  3. Robert Brook says:

    Superb tutorial using calculations, loved the use of burn and dodge tools I thought to use them I normally go for threshold adjustment but this looks like it might be a better technique.

  4. Thanks Rob, Threshold can be a little heavy handed where as by using the dodge and burn tools, you can still do it with speed but also retain really fine details.

    Remember to retweet it! :)

  5. Stu, you’re a genius – can’t tell you how much time this will save me! What a great adaptation of the old Channel Mask technique! Thanks a heap!

  6. Hi Jimbo, Hey, really glad you liked it and I hope it will be useful for your workflow.

  7. Tim Lewis says:

    I knew it would be a hit as soon as I saw it on Tuesday!

  8. Catherine says:

    Superb.

    I’ve just made a cutout using this technique. I thought it would take me forever, but it was surprising quick. And the result has actually astounded me. I’ve cut out an Aquilegia from a slightly off-white background, and it’s picked up all the fine detail in a seedhead plus handled the out-of-focus as well as the in-focus areas of the plant beautifully. I struggle to get a result like this even with Fluid Mask.

    I’m really delighted, it’s a very clean cut-out. I’ll post the image in the Flickr group pool.

    Thanks for another excellent piece of training. :)

  9. @Tim & Catherine – Thank you for the support and comments as usual. Catherine, In certain situations this technique is way more powerful than most of the masking software out there. :)

  10. Catherine says:

    I’ve posted my results on the Discussion Board rather than the group pool. I can see more extractions looming tonight. Thanks again.

  11. http://www.flickr.com/groups/thelittlephotoshop/discuss/72157622271144929/

    Its looking good. Users will need to be logged into Flickr and have join the group to use the above link. OR go directly to Catherine’s image.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/29528923@N06/3928190107/

  12. Mick Toone says:

    Well, what a great tutorial, as usual clear and concise.
    Excellent HD video too.
    If this is the shape of things to come, your bound to pickup
    a wider audience.
    All the very best.
    Mick

  13. Thanks Mick.

    Judging by the stats we all ready have. Look for a new article on Monday.

  14. David says:

    Stuart, this is great! I have to do this sort of thing all the time and it just never comes out near as good as this technique. Wow – and so easy, too. Now for the next step, once you get the selection, I would need to invert in and then make it a path, because we place images in InDesign, which needs the path when combined with other photos (I make catalogs). How does one make an accurate path from such an accurate selection? If I use 0.5 px for path tolerance, I get a zillion points, which is not very good, and if I use 1.0, then the path doesn’t follow the selection very well at all. What is the secret here, please? Drives me crazy. Thanks, Stu, and keep up the great work.

    David

  15. Hi David,

    Glad you like the technique. In my view paths are the most inflexible way of making a selection and the kind of accuracy of selection you get from this is getting to the point of being too complex for path, that is why I use this particular method and not paths. So to take this and make a path from it kind of defeats the purpose, but that said I do understand your need to do this because of InDesign. I would say you have to go with zillions of points because the more points, the finer the path, or find another method of placing your images into InDesign which I have very little knowledge of… Sorry I could not give you a definitive answer apart fromm don’t use paths.

  16. Alan Turnbull says:

    Hey Stu,

    Great tutorial, I haven’t had much time to spend on your site lately but I’m glad I caught this one – I’ve always had trouble getting a nice selection using the more traditional methods.

    Looking forward to more of your videos in the coming weeks.

    Al.

  17. Thanks Al. It’s a popular one alright. How’s the fish eye lens doing?

  18. David says:

    Thanks, Stu. I guess I should have expected your answer about paths! I tried out the burn and dodge technique today on a couple photos and it really is terrrific, so thanks, again, for the great tutorial.

    David

  19. No probs David. Glad your getting some good use out of it anyway.

  20. kelvin says:

    Brilliant Stu

  21. thank you! this is superb!

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